Best hike in Rio de Janeiro – A guide to hiking Dois Irmãos
If you’ve set foot in Rio de Janeiro, you will have no doubt seen the Dois Irmãos (Two Brothers) mountain standing tall at the end of Ipanema and Leblon beaches. This iconic mountain is by far the best hike in Rio de Janeiro. If you only have the time (or energy) for one hike, I can confidently say this is the best. Now, every time I look at the peak, I can’t help but think “OMG I was up there!”
Other guides will suggest the famous Telegraph Rock (where it looks like you are hanging off a cliff but it’s just an illusion) which is an hour’s drive outside of the city centre and will inevitably have line ups (yikes!!), or climbing up Morro da Urca (the first cableway platform on Sugarloaf) or even up Corcovado (to Christ the Redeemer), both of which you can access in much more leisurely ways.
Dois Irmãos has the benefit of being right in the Zona Sul (the main South Zone of Rio). From the top of Dois Irmãos your views of the sea and the city are truly unbelievable, and honestly, so much more rewarding than being at the top of Sugarloaf Mountain or Christ the Redeemer because you had to WORK to get to the top… there is lazy way up Dois Irmãos.
In this guide to hiking Dois Irmaos I will go over all the essentials to know before setting out to do the absolute best hike in Rio de Janeiro!
HIKING DOIS IRMAOS
Before deciding that you will do Dois Irmãos, the best hike in Rio, it is critical to know that the trailhead is located in Vidigal, one of Rio de Janeiro’s favelas. To get to the trailhead you will need to ride on the back of a motorcycle taxi from the lower entrance of the favela. More information and instruction on this this later in the post. This is a straightforward step and is generally considered fairly safe, but if either factor is a non-negotiable to you then this may not be the right hike for you.
The hike up Dois Irmãos is a moderate 3km out-and-back hike that is achievable in an afternoon (approx. 2-3 hours). The hike is definitely do-able for most people with a basic level of fitness. With enough time for breaks you and the right footwear, I believe most who wish to do the best hike in Rio should be fully able to do so.
The trail is easy to follow up the mountain and it is unlikely you can take any wrong turns, but route is on AllTrails under Irmão Maior via Trilha Dois Irmãos ,and the details are all accurate if you want a backup.
Climbing up the back side of the mountain through the lush Atlantic Forest, you will be comfortably shaded for much of the hike, despite Rio’s hot and humid weather. It is very steep in parts and is almost entirely all up hill with no relief. The hike can get quite slick, particularly during or after a heavy rainfall, which would make it significantly more challenging even for capable hikers. Make sure you check the forecast and plan your hike for a dry day.
There are two viewpoints along the way, which open up towards Rocinha, Rio’s largest favela, and Pedra da Gávea. Take all the breaks and photos you want, but the best views come once you reach the summit.
As you near the summit you will leave the shade of the trees and continue climbing up until you reach the true summit. The remarkable views overlooking Rio are best if you continue a few metres past the summit marker down to the large exposed rock area. Spend some time sitting at the top and enjoying the expansive views, have a snack, take it all in and really enjoy it because it won’t be without effort that you get there again.
entering through Vidigal Favela
If you’ve done your research about Rio, you’ll surely have read that it is generally not advised to go into favelas unaccompanied, or really at all. These neighbourhoods can have serious challenges of poverty, poor infrastructure, and gang/drug presence, however, they are also strong communities with deep cultural roots. Knowing where you are going, and what you are doing is really the most important thing in keeping yourself out of trouble.
I was really amped for this hike, and I knew the views would be incredible, but I was honestly a little weary of the access to the trailhead requiring me to go deep into a favela, on the back of a moto-taxi, no less. I decided I would get as far as the base of the favela and make one final assessment of the situation and decide then if I felt comfy heading deeper into Vidigal. Clearly, I did decide to go, and I am really, really glad I did. I will outline all the information I have to help you also make an informed decision.
Getting to Vidigal
First, you will take an Uber or Taxi to the main entrance at the base of Vidigal. The Praça do Vidigal is where you should get out – the driver will likely inform you that they cannot enter Vidigal or drive you further than the entrance, which is to be expected. The favela is territory of the locals, which is why you will hop on a moto-taxi to go the rest of the way up.
I was really amped for this hike, and I knew the views would be incredible, but I was honestly a little wary of the access to the trailhead requiring me to go deep into a favela, on the back of a moto-taxi, no less. I knew technically Vidigal is known to be one of the safer favelas due to it’s proximity to touristic South Zone of Rio, the frequent visits from hikers, and it’s dynamic cultural scene, so I decided I would get as far as the base of the favela and make one final assessment of the situation and decide then if I felt comfy heading deeper into Vidigal.
Clearly, I did decide to go, and I am really, really glad I did. I will outline all the information I have to help you also make an informed decision.
Moto-taxis
At the Praça do Vidigal you will see a big lineup of moto-taxis waiting to take people up. There are prices listed in Brazilian Reals on a banner above the lineup. Take a quick look at it before you hop on the bike so you can know what to expect to pay and make sure you have sufficient cash. You pay in cash upon getting off at your destination. At the time of my hike the listed cost of getting up to the trailhead was R$10, but I was only charged R$7, which is only $1.60 CAD. Not sure why the discount but I’ll take it!
As for getting on the moto-taxi you will first want to head to the front of the line and tell the guy where you want to go (Trilha Dois Irmãos). I didn’t receive a helmet on either ride, but you might be given one by your driver. You’ll then hop on the back of the bike and he will take off.
If you have never ridden on the back of a motorbike there are usually places to grip next to your seat or right behind your lower back and there will be little foot rests as well. Avoid touching the exhaust pipe with your leg because it can be hot, hot, hot. Put your phone securely in a bag or pocket and hold on because these are powerful bikes and they absolutely whip up the hills, bobbing and weaving through people, other bikes, cars, and trucks, and around bends as they climb the hill. It is a thrilling and authentic ride, and you will get a quick look into the community going about their day as you ride up.
Getting back down you can expect to pay the same R$10 in cash. There will often be a moto-taxi or two waiting near the trailhead. If there isn’t you can either wait for a bit until one comes up or if you feel confident wandering down towards the base, you can make your way on foot until you find another stand with a few guys waiting for passengers.
When do you fight a scam? If your driver tries to swindle you out a bit more money for the ride, consider it your foreigner tax and simply pay the extra few bucks. As long as it is not an outrageous up-charge it is not worth fighting them for the cash. Your currency probably goes a long way in Brazil and it will keep the peace – which is always what you want as a foreigner in a favela (even if it is considered one of the safer ones). In all honesty, I doubt this will happen so let this just be a passing warning thought.
- When do you fight a scam? If your driver tries to swindle you out a bit more money for the ride, consider it your foreigner tax and simply pay the extra few bucks. As long as it is not an outrageous up-charge it is not worth fighting them for the cash. Your currency probably goes a long way in Brazil and it will keep the peace – which is always what you want as a foreigner in a favela (even if it is considered one of the safer ones). In all honesty, I doubt this will happen so let this just be a passing warning thought.
the Trailhead
After the moto-taxi drops you off you will need to pass through a gate and walk straight towards the forest, past the Campo do Vidigal athletic pitch to reach the trailhead. The trail is on AllTrails under Irmão Maior via Trilha Dois Irmãos. The details are all accurate, and the trail is easy to follow.
At the official trailhead is a small hut set up where you will be required to pay a R$10 entrance/conservation fee per person (cash or credit). You can also purchase water and small snacks here. The trail is out and back so you will also finish your hike at the trailhead
General Safety
All things considered, I would call this hike fairly safe. It is a popular hike in Rio so you will most likely encounter others on the trail, and you are not going to stand out (too much) taking the moto-taxi through Vidigal.
It is popular to do this hike to enjoy the Sunrise or Sunset from the top, but to do this you will be hiking one way in the dark which can be dangerous. Visibility on the steep trail will be extremely limited without appropriate gear (headlamp, etc.) and there will be fewer people around. If you wish to make it a sunrise of sunset hike I would highly recommend joining a group tour with a knowledgeable, local guide.
You may also want to join a group tour any time of day if you will be hiking alone or simply want to have a guided experience. You can also combine the hike with a guided tour of Vidigal with a local guide. Some options include:
GUIDED SUNRISE HIKE
favela tour / hike dois irmaos
Other considerations to ensure you stay safe while hiking the best hike in Rio de Janiero are wearing appropriate footwear, staying hydrated, and not bringing any valuables on trail.
You do not need hiking boots to hike Dois Irmãos, but you definitely will need appropriate footwear with good grip. This hike is not the time to be wearing your new Havaianas.
Rio de Janeiro is a hot and humid tropical climate and you will be working hard and sweating climbing to the top, so it is important to carry enough water with you – generally recommended 1L/person. If you haven’t packed enough, you can buy some when you enter at the trailhead, and when I hiked Dois Irmãos, there also a guy with a cooler set up selling water and energy drinks approximately half way up, near the first viewpoint.
Lastly, make sure you are only carrying the essentials with you, and leave any valuables at your accommodation.
And a Caipirinha for reward
If the views weren’t enough of a reward for you, a Caipirinha might be! Once you are back at the start, I cannot recommend enough paying a visit to Bar Alto! It is only a 5-10 minute walk from the trailhead and you can enjoy a delicious drink to quench your thirst, or pick at some nice snacks with a view of Vidigal and Rio’s beaches, albeit a bit lower than the summit.
Bar de Laje is another well known bar with a view, but they charge R$50 just to enter! The view and the vibes are far better from Bar Alto.
Happy trip planning!
From one traveller to another, I hope this guide to the best hike in Rio de Janeiro was helpful for you as you make your plans and set out on your next adventure!
If you read through this guide to hiking Dois Irmãos and still have questions about the experience entering through Vidigal or have other Rio questions… fear not because I can still help! I have a personalized trip planning and advice service available to all Everywhere Travel Club readers. I’d love to chat for an hour with you and help answer any questions you’re working through, share fun ideas, and help bring your big trip into reality! For more info about the one on one call for advice check out the details of my Personalized Travel Planning Sesh.
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