BC'S FREE, HIDDEN GEM, NATURAL HOT SPRINGS
GUIDE TO VISITING LUSSIER HOT SPRINGS IN THE KOOTENAYS
Oh, I looooove a good hot spring, and Lussier in the Kootenays is absolutely one of the elite ones! It is increasingly harder and harder to come by free and natural hot springs – resorts pop up and direct the mineral-rich water into pools that you can pay to access. Sure, the water is geothermally heated and they offer nice amenities, but that is just a glorified hot tub to me. I want to experience a hot spring as it exists in nature: free, rugged, and real.
Lussier Hot Springs in BC’s interior hit all my criteria for that perfect natural hot spring experience. It is a special place, slightly off the beaten path yet still easily accessed, that remains 100% free and natural. What a gem to have in BC!
Here is all you need to know to visit the hidden gem, Lussier Hot Springs, in British Columbia, Canada
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The kootenays
These hot springs are located on traditional, ancestral, and unceded territories of the Ktunaxa First Nations. They have been stewards of the land and the waters of this area since time immemorial. Their movement around the territory would have led them to these Nupika Wu’u (Spirit Waters) across the region and they would have used the mineral-rich hot springs as a place of healing. It is with gratitude to the Ktunaxa First Nations that we can all experience the Spirit Waters of the hot springs and bathe in the river today.
As a British Columbian, I might take knowing where and what “The Kootenays” refers to for granted… The Kootenays are the mountainous southeastern region of the province of British Columbia in Canada, bordering Alberta, but further south than the infamous Rocky Mountain area around Banff (Alberta), and the neighbouring parks like Glacier, Yoho, and Revelstoke in BC.
To me, the Kootenays are the home to the classic BC hippies. The area is known for its friendly, eclectic, and creative community vibe, and is in the heart of beautiful nature, making access to adventure immediate.
Lussier Hot Springs
Lussier Hot Springs are amazingly easy to get to for a place that feels so off the beaten track and special. The hot springs are located in Kayʔintak ʔakisq’nuk Whiteswan Lake Provincial Park, 18 kilometres off the main highway 93.
Google Maps coordinates here →
To get to Lussier Hot Springs, turn off Highway 93 at the Whiteswan Lake sign and pass through the gate. Immediately after turning off the highway, you will be leaving the nice pavement. The road to the hot springs is a logging road, and although it is well-maintained, it is a rough drive. It’s a very bumpy, coarse-gravel road with some exposed edges without guardrails (especially the last 3 kms).
Despite being an unpaved back road, any capable car should be able to make the drive in good conditions. In summer, you don’t need a 4×4 vehicle or even anything with high clearance. We drove up in a sporty little Audi sedan, and it handled the road just fine. Come winter, the hot springs remain open, but the road could get quite treacherous and should be driven with caution and with good winter tires and chains.
Be aware that oversized mine and logging trucks also use this route and you should always give them the right of way.
Once you’re off the highway, the network connection also quickly disappears, so regardless of season, make sure to travel carefully to Lussier Hot Springs and go with a plan.
Nearby Towns
The nearest town to Lussier Hot Springs is the little village of Canal Flats, just 5 kilometres up the highway (24 km from the actual hot springs). This is a very small town, but it does have a gas station and a grocery store if needed. I would recommend gassing up or getting food further out in the town of Invermere to the North, or in Kimberley and Cranbrook to the South. All these towns are around 1 hour from Lussier Hot Springs and will have better amenities for visitors.
THE HOT SPRINGS
Once you’ve driven the 18 km on the service road, you’ll see a wooden sign pointing to the right indicating Lussier Hot Springs, and a parking lot with plenty of spaces. Park here and grab what you need for your hot springs dip.
At the parking lot, before walking down the path to the hot springs, there are two pit toilets available that can also be used as change rooms. There are none at the hot springs level.
Once you’re ready, you’ll need to descend a short but slightly steep 250m gravel path to the river level. The path is well-maintained and has a handy railing, but in winter it could turn into an icy slide.
Down at the river, aka the hot springs, there is some space to leave your belongings away from the water’s edge. Of course, you can leave your valuables locked securely in your car, but you can also bring your essentials down with you. It is pretty easy to keep an eye on your belongings from the hot springs, and you can leave it safely away from the water’s edge.
With a crowd like that, how can I call it a hidden gem?
Fair question… Compared to the main stops along the BC Hot Springs Circuit, Lussier is absolutely still a hidden gem, but not an undiscovered one. British Columbians taking summer camping trips through the interior or skiing along the Powder Highway in winter will know of Lussier Hot Springs. This particular visit was peak afternoon on a beautiful, summer Saturday… depending on the time and day you visit, you can still get Lussier all to yourself.
Lussier Hot Springs is made up of 3 different pools that vary in temperature. To access any of them, you will need to be able to scramble down a couple of large rocks and into the pools. This is one of the downsides to seeking out a truly natural hot spring, but for your average adventure seeker, it should be no problem.
The hottest pool is closest to the rock wall, and they cool off the closer they get to the flowing Lussier River. The hot pool is comfortably hot at around 47°C! To my delight, it wasn’t just tepid water… You could actually feel the heat flowing out through the cracks between the rocks.
The other pools get more temperate the closer to the river they are, and depending on the river levels, the cold water can penetrate the lower pools and change their temperatures. There were some kids who were enjoying the more moderate temperatures of the other pools.
The pools themselves are not very big or deep. The hottest is filled enough that if you are sitting on the bottom it is like a hot tub, with the water hitting at chest height. You can also perch on some rocks if you want to be slightly raised out of the water.
The other downside to visiting natural hot springs is the sulphur smell. In the pool it’s a bit rotten-eggy, but you get used to it pretty quickly. Just remind yourself it is mineral rich and nice for your skin. Fortunately, the smell doesn’t linger on your skin. Just give yourself and your bathing suit a rinse off either in the river or at your hotel.
Like I mentioned earlier, It is important to respect the land as we are only visitors to the Ktunaxa First Nations territory. If you visit Lussier, please do you part in keeping the land clean and undisturbed. Pack out anything you bring in, dispose of any garbage properly (even biodegradable items), and most of all, respect the landscape and the wildlife that call the place home.
Be bear aware
While in BC you are in Bear Country – it is critical to be bear aware! Although an encounter is somewhat unlikely, you can run into a bear anywhere around here. Knowing what to do if you encounter a bear is the best way to keep yourself safe while in nature.
Know the Bear Basics:
- Staying calm is one of your best lines of defence. Calm behaviour can reassure the bear. Talk calmly and firmly. This lets the bear know you are a human and not prey.
- Never run! Screams or sudden movements can trigger an attack, you are best to back away slowly.
- Keep an eye on the bear but don't stare it down and avoid eye contact.
- Make yourself appear big and stay in a group.
- Carry bear spray any time you're out in nature. It can feel a bit overkill carrying bear spray down with your towel and flip flops but it is one of the easiest things to do that could really help in a tense encounter.
- Bears are more active at dawn and dusk, so if you are trying to get the hot springs to yourself be aware you could be sharing it with a bear. (Obviously don't get in the hot springs if you see a bear around).
Visitors to Canada always want to see a bear, until you’re face-to-face with one, while in your bikini and have zero clue what to do… It’s always better to know the bear basics when in bear country.
Odds are you won’t even have to think about any of this, and you can enjoy your Lussier Hot Springs visit in peace.
bc hot springs circuit
Lussier Hot Springs is situated in the heart of BC’s Hot Springs Circuit – this is a well travelled route of hot springs resorts and natural, undeveloped hot springs in the Kootenay region.
DEVELOPED HOT SPRINGS
Among the most popular developed hot springs are Fairmont Hot Springs, Radium Hot Springs, and Ainsworth Hot Springs. These are well-established hot springs with fantastic amenities. Other hot springs resorts include Canyon Hot Springs, Halcyon Hot Springs, and Nakusp Hot Springs.
Fairmont Hot Springs is the largest hot springs resort in Canada but my favourite of the developed hot spring resorts is actually Ainsworth Hot Springs. It is owned and operated by the Lower Kootenay Band and has glorious views over Kootenay Lake.
UNDEVELOPED HOT SPRINGS
Undeveloped hot springs generally require more of an adventurous spirit and lots of care to be taken. Fairmont even posts a sign warning they deem access beyond their resort area to be unsafe, but it is okay to proceed with caution, it is just at your own risk.
Right by Fairmont are the historical ‘Indian Baths‘ which are the original hot spring baths carved into stone up on the hillside above. Also near Fairmont is also a Hot Springs Waterfall.
Near Halcyon and Naksup hot springs are the natural Halfway Hot Springs. There are a real gem, but are the most rugged to access and it requires some real effort. To get to Halfway you will need to take a logging road, but unlike Lussier a 4×4 is strongly recommended, and then follow a steep trail.
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Happy trip planning!
I am so happy to share my beautiful province of BC with you. I hope this guide was helpful for you as you make your plans and set out on your Canadian adventure!
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